Jamaica is the largest English speaking island in the Caribbea. 600 miles south of Florida and less than two hours by plane from Miami. It is 146 miles long, between 22 to 55 miles wide and has considerable variation in landscape from the coral sands and ironshore cliffs of the shoreline, through coastal wetlands, plains and highlands to the misty peaks of the Blue Mountains. It has a maritime tropical climate. The warm trade winds that blow by day are called sea breeze or doctor breeze. The land wind that blows at night is known as the undertaker. The average daily temperature varies according to elevation from a high of 86蚌 at sea level to a low of 63蚌 in the mountains. The average annual rainfall ranges from 300 inches on the eastern slopes of the Blue Mountains to 230 inches in some parts of the south coast. During the coolest months, December to March the island sometimes experiences northers; chill winds and high seas associated with a cold front to the north. July to September are the warmest months, May and October are traditionally the rainy months and there was a time when you could set your clock by the afternoon rain during these months. Currently, the increasingly erratic weather patterns are attributed by some environmentalists to deforestation and global warming. The hurricane season is demarcated by the cautionary rhyme: June too soon, July standby, August come it must, September remember, October all over. The last hurricane to hit the island was the savage Gilbert in September 1988.
HISTORY
The original inhabitants of Jamaica are believed to be the Arawaks who came from South America 2500 years ago. They called it Xaymaca which meant land of wood and water. The Spaniards who succeeded them wrote this phonetically, and substituted J for X. Christopher Columbus discovered the island in 1492 and claimed it for Spain. The Spaniards were disappointed that there was no gold and did little to develop the island. A few settlers cultivated cane and raised livestock. The gentle Arawaks were eliminated by overwork, brutality (some Spaniards hunted them for sport) and European diseases. Many of them killed their children and drank poison rather than submit to slavery under the Spaniards. Africans were imported to replace them.
In 1655 a British expedition failed to conquer Santo Domingo but took Jamaica as a consolation prize. When the Spaniards fled the island they freed their African slaves who took to the hills and formed the nucleus of the Maroons. The early British colonists lived under constant threat of attack from the Spanish, the French, and freebooting pirates, hence the island is ringed with ancient forts. The latter part of the seventeenth century was the age of the buccaneers. Because England was perennially at war with France or Spain and the Royal Navy could not patrol the entire Caribbean, the Crown issued Letters of Marque to ship's captains, authorizing the capture and plunder of enemy vessels. Thus the pirates became buccaneers and graduated to become privateers. One former buccaneer, Henry Morgan, actually became Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica in 1674.
During the eighteenth century, British landowners made vast fortunes out of sugar and great numbers of African slaves were imported to work on the plantations. After a long campaign spearheaded by non-conformist missionaries in Jamaica and Liberal politicians in England, the slaves received their freedom towards the middle of the nineteenth century. Jamaica remained a British Colony with a governor until granted Independence in 1962. Major legacies of the British are: the parliamentary system, the judicial system, and the game of cricket, lovely cricket.
GOVERNMENT and POLITICS
Jamaica is an independent state, a parliamentary democracy and member of the British Commonwealth of Nations. At present, The Queen of England is also the Queen of Jamaica and represented by a Governor General whose duties like those of the British sovereign are largely ceremonial. Political power lies with parliament which consists of a House of elected members representing 60 constituencies and a Senate of 21 members, fourteen of them nominated by the Prime Minister and 8 by the Leader of the Opposition.
The British divided the island into parishes for administrative purposes and the system has endured. There are 13 parishes, each with an elected Parish Council. Originally these were composed of prominent local citizens but nowadays Parish Council elections are fought on political party lines. Traditionally, Parish Councils were responsible for the administration of local government services: roads and works, health and sanitation, fire brigade, water supply, etc., but had little autonomy. Over the years, central government has usurped most of these responsibilities (like water supply), and others (such as garbage collection), have been divested to private enterprise. The incumbent government's expressed intention to strengthen local government has not materialized as yet.
The Jamaican Constitution is currently under review by a Constitutional Commission, comprised of representatives from both political parties, legal experts and independent members. Proposed amendments include creation of a republic and replacing the Queen as head of state with a President, and further human rights safeguards.
Elections are held every 5 years. There are two major political parties: The Jamaica Labour Party (JLP )and the People's National Party (PNP). New parties frequently emerge, such as The New Beginning Movement founded in 1992 against a background of widespread disillusionment with the two major parties and politics in general but whose inital drive soon fizzled out. So far none has attracted significant support and no independent candidate has ever been elected. Equally, to date no party has enjoyed more than two successive terms in office and Time for a Change is a powerful election slogan.
The Jamaica Labour Party was formed in 1943 under the leadership of the late William Alexander Bustamante, a businessman and labour leader, and now a National Hero. The JLP was elected to govern in the first election under the 1944 constitution which granted universal adult suffrage. Subsequent terms in office were 1949-1955, 1962-1972 and 1980-1989. The current leader of the party is the Rt. Hon. Edward Seaga. The JLP is considered the more conservative and consistent party and has always espoused the free market system. During the 1970s and 80s it was vehemently anti-communist and pro-U.S.A. The Bustamante Industrial Trade Union is an affiliate of the JLP. The President of the B.I.T.U., former Prime Minister Hugh Shearer, only just recently resigned as Deputy Leader of the JLP.
The People's National Party was formed in 1938 and Norman Washington Manley, a barrister, emerged as leader soon afterwards. Now deceased and a National Hero, he was a first cousin of Bustamante's. The PNP formed the government from 1955-62 and again in 1972-80 when under the leadership of Michael Manley it espoused democratic socialism and aligned Jamaica closely with Fidel Castro. However, under the current leadership of P.J. Patterson, an attorney, the PNP now espouses the free market system.
The last election held in April 1993 returned 52 PNP and 8 JLP members to the House, but widespread allegations of chicanery prompted election petitions in 10 constituencies. As we went to press these were still unresolved by the Courts.
The Workers Party of Jamaica, a small Communist party formerly led by university professor Trevor Munroe, founder of the University and Allied Workers Union, is in eclipse. But Munroe is widely respected as an objective political analyst and social commentator.
The ECONOMY
The major contributors to the gross national product are tourism, bauxite and agriculture.
Tourism
The largest foreign exchange earner grossed US$920 million in 1994. There are 170 registered hotels, 258 guests houses, 937 resort cottages and villas, and
429 apartments providing nearly 20,000 tourism rooms! Tourism arrivals in 94 exceeded 1.1 million including almost 600,000 cruiseship passengers. Although the indigenous tourist operators are wary of the loss of revenue to the cruise-ship trade, these visitors are all happily welcomed as grist to the foreign exchange mill. In addition, non-traditional markets like Europe, Japan and South America are growing and the summer season is now as strong as the traditional winter season.
Bauxite
The raw material of aluminium is mined and exported. It is also processed into ?alumina??the first stage of aluminium production. A major market for bauxite was the former U.S.S.R. Enduring markets for alumina are the U.S. and Canada. The government of Jamaica is now in partnership with two U.S. firms and one Canadian firm operating in Jamaica.
Agriculture
Sugar is still the largest employer and major agricultural earner. The government is currently divesting its sugar holdings to private enterprise. The banana industry is in the process of
rehabilitation. Coffee cultivation has been revived and vastly
increased but too rapid expansion, especially in the Blue Mountains has created environmental problems. Other
important export crops are pimento (allspice), citrus, papayas and yams.
Ganja (marijuana) though illegal, represents a significant contribution to the economy. It is probable that during the 70s and early 80s the revenue from ganja equalled or surpassed
that of bauxite or tourism. Thus the control of the ganja trade is fraught with economic and political implications. Nevertheless successive governments have always co-operated with U.S. anti-narcotic squads in their attempts to curtail the importation of
marijuana into the U.S. Local, eradication programs involving spraying of ganja fields have proved extremely controversial.
POPULATION
The vast majority of Jamaicans are of African descent or mixed race. Other groups include East Indians, Chinese and European. Hence the national motto, ?Out of Many, One People.? The current population is estimated at 2.5 million and from all appearances is growing steadily.
In the past the population growth has been modified by emigration to North America or the U.K. Currently, due to tough economic conditions in those countries, many Jamaicans are repatriating.
RELIGION
It is said that there are more churches per square mile in Jamaica than anywhere in the world. The variety of houses of worship covers everything from centuries old parish churches to the bamboo and zinc shacks of Revivalists. The vast majority of believers belong to one of the numerous Christian denominations: the traditional groups being Anglican, Baptist, Catholic, Methodist, Seventh Day Adventists and United Church (Presbyterian). There are also numerous Evangelical groups as well as Moravians,
Mennonites, Plymouth Brethren, Unity and Jehovah Witnesses. Other religious groups include Jews, Hindus, Muslims, Bahai?s and Rastafarians.
THE LANGUAGE
The language of Jamaica is English though you may sometimes find this difficult to believe. Students of dialect maintain that the patois varies from parish to parish and even from yard to yard. Jamaica Talk is a synthesis of several influences: Old English and nautical terms such as ?breadkind? and ?catch to?; Spanish as in ?shampata? from, zapatos (shoes); Irish dialect as in ?nyampse?(a fool); African as in ?duppy? (a ghost) or ?nyam? (to eat), and American slang such as ?cool? elaborated as ?cool
runnings? or ?diss? as in disrespect. Rastafarian ?I-dren? (brethren) have their own language and one word that you will hear frequently is ?Irie? meaning good, happy, pleasant or high. The traditional Rasta greeting ?Peace and Love? is giving way to ?Respect due?. Dance-hall, Jamaica?s latest musical phenomenon, has its own ever evolving language. Though influenced
by American ?rappers?, much of it is entirely indigenous, for example ?Browning? which describes any light-skinned girl; to ?big-up? a person means to praise or advertise them, and ?flex? meaning behaviour or deportment.
What you need to know
Using this book to Tour Jamaica
The best way to discover Jamaica is at your own pace. This guide is planned for visitors with a car or ?wheels? of some sort. When renting a car or motorbike be sure to deal with a reputable and registered company and have all your insurance in order. An air-conditioned car will add to your comfort and protect you from is almost essential in the summer months.
We have included descriptions of the six main areas with tours radiating from Kingston, Mandeville, Montego Bay, Negril, Ocho Rios, and Port Antonio. Interesting detours are also described. We give the approximate mileage of each tour, but the time each tour takes is entirely up to you, as well as road and weather conditions and other imponderables. You may want to stop and ?smell the flowers?, have a swim, picnic, negotiate a purchase or whatever. It is impossible to see every point of interest mentioned on the same day, so you may wish to plan your own itinerary using our index and tour maps. Here are some additional suggestions for motorists.
FINDING YOUR OWN WAY
A good road map is essential. The bad news is that getting lost
is half the fun. You may see unexpected places and meet interesting people. You can get directions at any cross roads, corner shop, police station, or for that matter in the middle of a
canefield. The problem is that in their eagerness to help, your informants may underestimate distance and overestimate road conditions.
If a Jamaican tells you that a road is bad, believe him ? it
is probably impassable. Beware of someone who speaks of a ?driving road? especially if he happens to be riding a donkey. His idea of what constitutes a ?driving road? may be entirely subjective. We discovered that a ?driving road? may be negotiable only with a jeep or tractor.
A ?chain? is an archaic measurement of British origin equivalent to 22 yards. In Jamaica the term is still used frequently and indiscriminately to estimate distance. A ?few chains? could be anything up to a mile, or two, or more.
Driving in the city may test your mettle. Plan your route ahead of time, expect traffic jams, maniacal drivers, malicious pot-hole, major air pollution and do not be surprised if the
traffic lights are not working.
Road manners. Jamaican drivers are neither the most cautious nor the most courteous in the world. They speed, pass on the wrong side, stop in the middle of the road to have a chat and honk or yell at other drivers who cross them. For your part, do not be afraid to use your horn; this is a necessary survival skill especially on winding mountain roads and in village streets thickly populated with loungers, livestock and children.
In rural areas, be prepared for your appearance to cause comment, especially in remote areas. ?Whitey? or ?Red Man? are not insults, merely descriptions of your complexion.
Rural roads have unexpected hazards: tiny children who wander in to the road to wave at you, schoolchildren on their way to school, cricket games in the middle of the street, ambling livestock, to name just a few. Not to mention again the infinite variety
of potholes.
FREELANCE GUIDES will volunteer to show you the way. Make discreet inquiries before accepting their services and agree on
a fee before setting out. Giving lifts is one way of getting a guide and a lot of local information. As a rule it is perfectly safe to pick up school kids or little old ladies on their way to church. Screen other applicants carefully.
HOW TO DEAL WITH HUSTLERS
Let?s face it, you are going to meet some, especially in the resort areas. If you are not interested in the goods or services offered, just say so, politely but very firmly. If the hustler persists, look around for a policeman. If all else fails, a well chosen Jamaican expletive may work wonders because it will demonstrate that you are not a total ?stranger in paradise?. Get a Jamaican friend to tutor you in the most effective phrases (you don?t even have to know what they mean). Most Jamaicans have a sense of humour and are well acquainted with the Tourist Board?s campaigns aimed at reducing tourist harassment so another defensive tactic is to say ?Cho man doant harass de tourist? or, alternatively ?Leff me nuh man can?t you see I am a poorist?? (i.e.
impecunious traveller). As a rule, the further you are away from a resort area or official attraction, the less likely you are to be harassed.
A WORD OF CAUTION
Crime is just as prevalent in Jamaica as elsewhere in the world. It is foolish to walk around carelessly, especially in Kingston, Montego Bay or Ocho Rios. If you do want to wander around in the towns, it is best to disguise yourself as a ?poorist?, many of whom establish instant rapport with sympathetic locals. This means you will have to dress simply, (the scruffier the better) and leave your cameras, jewellery and money in a safe place. Persons who encourage drug vendors and prostitutes are dealing with criminals and putting themselves at risk.
RENTING A DREAD
Recently Jamaica has figured in some European magazines as offering ?Sex Tourism? on a par with Thailand. This is nonsense. It is true however that many single ladies come to Jamaica in search of their own Bob Marley facsimile and local youths are only too happy to act as gigolos. This is known locally as ?Renting a dread? because youths with dreadlocks are most in demand.
BREAKDOWNS
Your car rental firm will have advised you of their recommended procedure. Most have a 24-hour emergency service. But what if you breakdown on a country road far from a telephone? You will find that someone materializes as if by magic to help you. He will
be a mechanic, have ambitions of being a mechanic, or happen to have a mechanic friend nearby. In a short while a small but sympathetic crowd may have gathered and at least two or three of them will be having a go at fixing your car. It is not a bad idea
to request a diagnosis and an estimate of charges early in the proceedings. More often than not they will succeed in getting you back on the road, at least to the nearest telephone.
Accidents
Inform your car rental firm as soon as possible.
EATING EN ROUTE
It is fun to sample local food, for instance you should try some pepper shrimps at Middle Quarters, Fry Fish and Bammy at Scotts Cove in Westmoreland, Jerk Pork or Chicken almost everywhere and you can safely quench your thirst with ?a jelly? ? a green coconut which is filled with ?coconut water?and lined with soft white jelly. On the journey from Ocho Rios to Kingston, hungry Jamaicans stop on Mount Diablo at Faith?s Pen to snack: favourite items here are corn, roasted or boiled, or roast yam. Patties and coco bread, bun and cheese are popular with Jamai- can travellers and can be bought in most towns. Cold bottled drinks are available in almost every village. However, a picnic basket or box lunches and an igloo of iced water are sensible precautions. In case of injury or illness
All large hotels have a doctor on call and can also recommend
a dentist. If you are staying in a villa call the nearest hotel and ask for the name of their doctor or ask your housekeeper to recommend a local doctor. Emergencies should be taken to
the casualty depart ment of the nearest hospital. The St John?s Ambulance provide an ambulance service: Telephone: 974-5126. There is also an Air Ambulance Service which can arrange speedy airlift to the U.S. This service is listed in the telephone directory
PROBLEMS
Contact your embassy or the nearest office of the Jamaica Tourist Board.
Jamaica Tourist Board
Montego Bay ? 952-4425?8.
Mandeville ? 962-1072.
Ocho Rios ? 974-2570
Negril ? 957-4243.
Port Antonio ? 993-3051.
Embassies
U.S. Embassy ? 929-4850
British High Commission ? 926-9050
Canadian High Commission ? 926-1500
German Embassy ? 926-6728
Japanese Embassy ? 929-7534
Netherlands Embassy ? 926-2026.
TOURS
If you do not have your own transport the tour desk of any large hotel can recommend a taxi or suggest an appropriate tour.
OVERSEAS TELEPHONE CALLS
Overseas calls made from a private phone require an individual ICAS number. Long distance and overseas calls can be made from public telephones using telephone cards which can be purchased from various locations.
What you may want to know
ARAWAKS
The original inhabitants of Jamacia were gentle, pleasure loving people who liked dancing and playing ball games. They believed in an afterlife and sometimes strangled a dying chief to speed him into paradise. They hunted, cultivated a few crops and fished. Their canoes were made by burning and chiselling out the trunks of silk cotton trees, a method that is still used today. Another legacy of the Arawaks is ?bammy?, a thick pancake made from cassava and delicious fried with fish.
ARCHAEOLOGY
226 Arawaks sites have been mapped throughout the island. Excavations have yielded tools, jewellery, pottery and middens of seashells. The only gold artifact extant was discovered by Dr James Lee, a former President of the Jamaica Archaeological Society, and is displayed in the Coin Museum at the Bank of Jamaica. The national Arawak Collection can be seen at the Arawak Museum at WHITE MARL, 3 miles from Spanish Town (turn L off the Kingston to Spanish Town highway). This is an Arawak site and the building
is a facsimile of an Arawak dwelling.
MOUNTAIN RIVER CAVE near GUANABOA VALE in
St Catherine has Arawak pictographs: some 200 paintings in black pigment of birds, turtles, lizards, fish, frogs, humans and abstract designs done on the ceiling of the cave. They are estimated to be between 500 and 1300 years old. The site, known since 1897, was re-discovered by Dr Lee in 1954 and later acquired by the Archaeological Society and donated to the
Jamaica National Heritage Trust who now maintain it. Call JNHT on 922-1287-8 for information. To find Mountain River Cave turn L just past the roundabout west of Spanish Town, travel through Guanaboa Vale and approximately 5 miles up the hill to the home of the authorized guide which is indicated by a sign. From here it is a stiff hike but less than a mile down to the river, across it and up the other side to the cave. The guide will have a key to open the grill gate.
ART
The NATIONAL GALLERY on the Kingston Waterfront has a collection of important Jamaican paintings and works of art. An annual exhibition of new works is held here annually. There are many private galleries, where you can view exhibitions and purchase pieces, listed in the Yellow pages of the telephone directory.
BIRDWATCHING
There are hotels where friendly ?cling-clings? will hustle you for food, and some visitors complain that the birds wake them up in the morning so you do not have to go far to birdwatch in this country. Bird lady Lisa Salmon of Rocklands Birdfeeding Station near Montego Bay, Robert Sutton of Marshall?s Pen in Mandeville, Catherine Levy or Audrey Downer of the Kingston based GOSSE BIRD CLUB can all advise you on the habitats of some rare species and give you more information. Birds of Jamaica by Audrey Downer with colour illustrations is a useful guide and is obtainable at most bookstores.
CAVING
Limestone areas abound with caves, sinkholes and under-ground passages, many of them containing streams, waterfalls and mini-lakes. 380 sizeable caves have been mapped by the Geological Department and there are many more awaiting exploration. Many of the larger caves are inhabited by
colonies of bats (locally known as ?rat-bats?) and yield manure ? a valuable fertilizer. Several caves (for example the Jackson Bay caves in Clarendon) were frequented by Arawaks and contain traces of tools and carvings. The Mountain River cave (see above) has Arawak paintings. Caves developed as tourist attractions are: Green Grotto in Runaway Bay, NonSuch in Portland and Two Sisters in Hellshire. Others that are frequently visited are Windsor Caves in Trelawney and the Ipswich and Oxford caves in St Elizabeth.
DIVING
There are many certified scuba operations on the island. The Jamaica Association of Dive Operators has strict standards. Members all offer basic and advanced courses and certification. Some will film your underwater exploits for a souvenir video. The Discovery Bay marine laboratory has a Decompression Chamber.
EATING AROUND
Jamaica has no culinary critics as such, but we do have a couple of acerbic Gleaner columnists who also happen to be epicures: Dawn Rich and Morris Cargill are good friends and they usually sample restaurants together. Dawn?s restaurant ratings, amplified
by some comments from Morris follow (we offer these comments to show that not even these two experienced epicures
agree all of the time. So do your own research!):
Kingston
Your best bet is Chinese Food: Jade Gardens at Sovereign Centre has very good food, average to poor service and good value despite the high prices. (But the Sovereign Centre reminds Morris of a railway station.) Dragon City in Northside Plaza
has very good food, good service and reasonable prices. The best value for money in town. Golden Bowl in York Plaza has excellent food and reasonable prices but no pretensions to ambiance.
Blue Mountain Inn on the Gordon Town road has a
beautiful setting, predictably high prices but unpredictable food and service.
Steak fanciers will make a beeline for Bull?s Eye, a steakhouse in Northside Plaza, and a recently opened branch in Knutsford Boulevard, where Morris found the steak ?inedible?, but Dawn, who was hungry found it tasty. On their second visit Dawn had pork,
which she highly recommends. Younger epicures say the steak is great and the prices very reasonable. It also has a pretty good french onion soup!
The restaurant at Morgan?s Harbour Hotel has potential, they plan to go back and try it again. Rafael?s on Hillcrest Avenue has very good Italian ice-creams.
Port Antonio
Breakfast at Trident Hotel is unsurpassed. Their afternoon teas, complete with cucumber sandwiches and light cakes are also highly recommended.
Ocho Rios
Parkway Restaurant on Main St. and popular with locals, serves Jamaican cuisine of acceptable quality at reasonable prices. Evita?s has excellent daiquiris and super salads. Near Falmouth, Glistening Waters has good seafood at reasonable prices and a lethal rum punch.
Montego Bay
Julia?s has a spectacular view, not matched by the food or service.
Negril
It?s the Hungry Lion for homemade bread, good soups, seafood and fresh vegetables. De Buss is getting very pricey but has an excellent Jerk Sauce and good potato chips.
FISHING
There are 4 annual Marlin tournaments. Deep sea fishing boats can be chartered in most resorts. Boats or canoes or tackle can also be hired by negotiation at fishing beaches.
GOLF
Golf courses are located at Constant Spring and Caymanas in Kingston, Rose Hall, Half Moon, Ironshore and, of course, Tryall (the venue for the Johnnie Walker Cup every December) in Montego Bay, Negril Hills near Negril, Super Clubs at Runaway Bay, Sandals at Upton near Ocho Rios. The oldest
golf course in the West Indies is in Mandeville and there is a course under construction at San San in Portland.
HIKING
Jamaica is a hiker?s paradise. Despite the huge variety of flora and fauna, no species is dangerous. One very enthusiastic hiker was a former British High Commissioner, John Drinkall, who claims that the average hiker can spend weeks or even months exploring the country around Newcastle, Holywell, Clydesdale, Cinchona and of course Blue Mountain Peak. The usual way to climb the Peak is from Mavis Bank via Whitfield Hall but it can also be approached from Cedar Valley or from Somerset via Stoddart?s Peak, which is the way that Captain Stoddart pulled his swivel guns up to bombard Nanny Town.
Drinkall?s favourite trails are:
In Portland, the Eco Tourism Action Group, affiliated with the Rio Grande project can furnish trained guides. Call 993 2543 for information.
When hiking in the Portland mountains be prepared for rain. The hills abound in streams and waterfalls and have wildlife seldom seen elsewhere in the island: birds like the Mountain Witch (it prefers walking to flying) and shy little nocturnal
creatures called Conies. Wild hogs are still hunted in Portland but their numbers are dwindling as coffee plantations gobble
up more and more of the natural forest. The few people you will meet on your mountain rambles are very friendly; the exception will be if you stumble unawares onto a ganja cultivation, so try to be careful and discreet.
Other popular Hiking spots
There are many, including the hills around Malvern, Shooter?s Hill near Mandeville, Bullhead Mountain in Clarendon, and the Cockpit Country.
At Windsor Caves in Trelawney (where the nearby Great house is owned by Mike Schwartz, reluctant host and a retired airplane mechanic), a guide can take you across the Cockpits from Windsor to Troy above Balaclava. This is a full day?s hike and you should
arrange for a car to meet you. On the way you will traverse a district called Rest and Be Thankful (take the hint) and you will pass a weird landmark known as Black Hole ? an immensely deep cylindrical hole in black rock completely untypical of its surroundings.
Hiking Precautions
Hikers have been lost in the Blue Mountains more than once. Never set out on any hike with less than three persons. Choose experienced guides ? these can usually be recruited in village bars if the district is remote. In the Blue Mountains, check the PARC
roster first. Sturdy walking or track shoes are adequate. And remember that in this climate only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun ? without a hat.
HORTICULTURE
There are horticultural societies in all parishes and each has an annual Flower Show. The Mandeville Horticultural Society is 100 years old and their show is always impressive. It is usually held in spring. The largest and most spectacular show is that of
the Jamaica Horticultural Society, held at the National Arena in Kingston on the last weekend of April.
MAROONS
The name comes from the Spanish ?cimmaron? meaning wild
or untamed. When the British invaded the island in 1655 the African slaves of the Spanish colonists escaped into the hills and lived a wild, free life. Some of them helped their former masters in guerilla warfare against the British. One such was Juan de Bolas, whose subsequent defection to the British side hastened the final exodus of the Spaniards.
In time the Maroons came to control large areas of the interior and would swoop down from the hills to raid the plantations and kidnap women. Runaway slaves also found a refuge with them. The two main groups were the Trelawney Town Maroons led by Kojo (alias Cudjoe) and the Windward Maroons led by Queen Nanny and later by Quao. The Maroons were skilled hunters and fierce fighters and the British Army and local militia were unable to control or conclusively defeat them. Indian hunters and their dogs had
to be imported from Central America to track them in the bush. The first Maroon War ended with a treaty that ceded large areas of land to the Maroons. In turn, they had to promise to recapture and return all runaway slaves and help the government in the event of an invasion. The land ceded to the Maroons was around Flagstaff in Trelawney and was named Trelawney Town, and at Accompong in St Elizabeth. Accompong remains Maroon territory to this day, but after the Second Maroon War, the Trelawney Town land was taken away and most of the male Maroons exiled to Canada and then to Africa. The remnants of their families settled nearby in a district now known as Maroon Town. The land given to the Windward Maroons was around Moore Town, Charles Town and Scott?s Hall. Of these, Moore Town is the only sizeable Maroon settlement left. Maroon land is held in common and they are not required to pay taxes.
NATIONAL HEROES
The order of National Hero of Jamaica was created in 1965. The first heroes named were Sir Alexander Bustamante and Norman Washington Manley, the founders of the two political parties and architects of independent Jamaica. Named at the same time were: Paul Bogle, a farmer and preacher who led the so-called Morant Bay Rebellion, George William Gordon, an ex-member of the House of Assembly who was hung for alleged complicity in the Morant Bay Rebellion, and Marcus Garvey, a journalist and printer who emigrated to the United States and founded the Universal Negro Improvement Association. In 1975 two more were created: Sam Sharpe, the involuntary leader of the Christmas Rebellion in 1831 and Nanny, chieftainess of the Windward Maroons ? though historical evidence of the lady is non-existent. All are mentioned in the text. A safe prediction is that the late Reggae superstar Bob Marley is next in line for National Hero.
NATIONAL PARKS
The Protected Areas Resource Conservation (PARC) project, is
a partnership between U.S.AID and the government of Jamaica with assistance from international NGO?s like The Nature Conservancy and Puerto Rico Conservation Trust. It is administered locally by the Jamaican Conservation Development Trust.
Montego Bay Marine Park and the Blue Mountain/John Crow Mountain National Park, established under the auspices of PARC, have established a conservation framework: laws have been updated, rangers recruited, trained, given powers of arrest and supplied with
trail bikes and boats. One very positive feature of the project is the rapport established with communities living or using the park areas. This has been especially successful in the Blue Mountain/John Crow Mountain park where local residents have established two tour companies to develop the eco-tourism potential of their areas: The Top of the Mountain Blue Mountain Tours, staffed by locals, can arrange guided tours to and around the Peak while Blue Mountain Adventure Tours can do the same for the
Holywell/Hardwar Gap area. To contact either call the JCDT office at 922-2217, the PARC office at 927-5813?5, or the PARC mountain headquarters at Guava Ridge at 977-8044. An excellent guide to the Blue and John Crow Mountains can also be had from PARC. It includes a table of trails with ratings from Easy, through Moderate to Extremely Difficult and a map of the entire area.
The second phase of the PARC project will establish three more National Parks: two marine parks in Negril and Port Antonio and a terrestrial park covering the Black River Morass. Also scheduled for National Park status is the Cockpit Country.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Film is expensive here; bring enough to last your stay. If you are after human interest you may find reactions unpredictable. Many Jamaicans object to being photographed unless they are dressed in their Sunday best. Others object, period. Others demand ?a
money?. Others, especially schoolchildren will ham it up for free. If you happen to have a video, you could be swamped by people
who want to get in the movies.
RACING
Horseracing has a long history in Jamaica and is still very
popular. Races at Caymanas Park draw large crowds every Wednesday and Saturday, although there is currently much debate about the introduction of Sunday racing, and thousands more play the Racing Pools or patronize the many off-track betting stations. All
the top trainers have their stables close to the track and horse lovers may enjoy visiting Caymanas early in the morning to watch exercise gallops.
RASTAFARI
Rastafari is an indigenous religion which emerged during the 1930s as a grass roots answer to social conditions and the irrelevance of white-oriented denominations. Basic tenets include the divinity of the late Emperor Haile Selassie (Ras Tafari) of Ethiopia, re-incarnation, and a taboo against males cutting or combing their hair or beards. However, Rasta is an evolving and subjective religion and not all Rastas embrace all of these. Rastafari has been used as a cover by criminals ? ?wolves in sheep?s clothing?, and as a publicity gimmick by pop musicians, but in its pristine form it is a valid faith which emphasizes the indwelling God Spirit in every person. Rastafaris developed their own version of the Jamaican dialect in which ?I? is a frequent pre-fix. (For example ?I and I? or ?I-man? meaning I or myself and ?I-dren? meaning children or brethren). ?I-tal? food is vegetarian cooking without salt. Many Rastas regard the use of marijuana as a sacrament and aid to meditation.
SAILING
Boats can be hired at most beaches and ocean front hotels. Bonafide members of registered yacht clubs may use the facilities of the MONTEGO BAY YACHT CLUB at Montego Freeport and the ROYAL JAMAICA YACHT CLUB on the Palisadoes Road, south of Kingston. They
must produce proof of current membership and sign the Visitors Book.
TENNIS
There are lighted courts and pros at most large hotels. The Manchester Club?s Tennis Week in August is one of the oldest open tournaments in the Western Hemisphere. The governing body of local tennis is the Jamaica Lawn Tennis Association
with Headquarters at the St Andrew Club on Marescaux Road
in Kingston.
SPECTATOR SPORTS
Cricket is a national obsession, especially during a Test Match when every ear is glued to a radio to check the fortunes of the West Indies Eleven. International Test Matches and Inter-Caribbean Shell Shield and Red Stripe Cup Matches are played at Sabina
Park in Kingston. Other matches are played year round and islandwide at Sports Clubs, on village greens and sometimes in the middle of the road.
THEATRE
Kingston offers vibrant theatrical entertainment of high professional standard. The WARD THEATRE downtown is the venue for the annual pantomime which lasts from Boxing Day to April and for the annual Ward Season of Excellence which includes dance and drama from overseas. The LITTLE THEATRE on Tom Redcam Avenue is the showcase of Jamaican talent and home
of the internationally acclaimed groups the National Dance Theatre Company and Jamaican Folk Singers. Year round there is always a choice of three or four ?rootsy? plays at small uptown theatres like The Barn on Oxford Road. Visitors may have some problems understanding the dialect. Persevere.
My favourite place
in Jamaica
RT. Hon. P.J. Patterson
Prime Minister of Jamaica
To be asked to name my favourite spot
in Jamaica is like being asked to pick a single gem from a room full of sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds.
Each time I travel through the
island, I discover yet another spot of breathtaking beauty. There is always that spectacular view along roads which is specially revealed for the first time after many previous journeys.
Within minutes of driving or a climb of a few hundred feet, the traveller in Jamaica often experiences not just a simple change of scenery but the marvel of a totally different vista.
How does one choose between the majesty of our hills and the serenity of our waters? To avoid making that agonizing choice, I will opt for a spot which combines nearly all the joys
of nature.
High in the hills of Eastern Westmoreland, there nestles a somnolent village. As each day dawns, a beguiling mist gives way to the first rays of sunshine. The air is fresh, the breeze gentle, the atmosphere serene. The tranquility is enhanced by a constant chirping from the birds. Beyond the cliffs below, there is a bewitching view of the coastline ? the sea with its delicate tincture and rhythmic waves.
In the distance, one can see fishermen paddling their small canoes to cast their nets or raise their pots. .Above there is the brilliant blue sky, with only the semblance of a slowly drifting cloud. As one looks westward, there is a panoramic view of the fertile plains, with the gentle streams making their way through the cane fields.
The surrounding hills are dotted with humble cottages where live proud but gentle people ? farmers in the main, tending their crops.
Mango trees are laden. Breadfruit is in season. Gardens are resplendent with crotons, ferns, hibiscus. The verdant trees are covered with clusters of red poinciana and flaming jacaranda.
As the evening ends, one can see the sun, like a burning ball of fire, disappear slowly below the western sky.
At this spot, where every prospect pleases, one feels truly at peace with nature.
Needless to say, it is off the beaten track. Its name ? Content.
Rt. Hon. Edward Seaga
Leader of the Opposition
Deep in the hills by a stream; temperature ? 60-65 degrees; mist in the evening and early morning; lots of shade trees, I don?t fancy too much direct sun; a soft, gentle breeze. Philodendrons in the undergrowth, azaleas and hydrangeas for mass of colour. A view of nearby hills with very few homes. No view of the city. Books? A small
selection. The birds will do the rest.
Derek Milton
Former British High Commissioner,
1989-1995
Some of my most memorable experiences in Jamaica have been spent far up in the coffee growing areas of the Blue Mountains where tourist beaches are a distant prospect and where the air is cool and clear. Perhaps my favourite place is at the highest point of the road which goes up through Newcastle and down to Buff Bay. Beyond Hardwar Gap and before you sweep down to silver Hill is
a beautiful, ever-changing vista over majestic hills ? ever-
changing because the clouds are constantly creating new
shapes and shadows. Sometimes the mist comes down and
blots out the view completely, and then the magic moment comes when the mist suddenly disperses and reveals the view once again.
Up here where the coffee bushes thrive there is a wonderful range of wild flowers and shrubs not found at lower levels. The almost over-powering scent from the wild ginger will stay with me for many years as will the agapanthus, angels trumpets and eucalyptus.
Here the pavements and city streets are far away; there are few cars and less noise and bustle. This is a place to contemplate on the wonders of nature and to refresh one?s mind and body for life?s daily exigencies.
J. Gary Cooper
United States Ambassador
If you were to ask me to name my favourite place in Jamaica, there could only be one answer ? its capital city, Kingston. Yes, the beaches are beautiful, the mountains breathtaking, but anyone who visits this lovely island and does not see Kingston is missing an essential and vibrant part of the Jamaican experience. To a first-time visitor, the sights and sounds may seem confusing and chaotic; but Kingston is the pulse of the nation, the center of commerce, the seat of government, and definitely not a sleepy backwater. There is the bustle of downtown: the ships in the harbour, the street vendors, the lovely Ward Theatre and the superbly designed Conference Centre. Then there is the businesslike atmosphere of New Kingston, with its tall buildings and smartly dressed office workers. Combine this with a variety of cultural delights ? Devon House, museums, music, theatre and an impressive array of art galleries ? and you will find a metropolis of many moods. You may even find an oasis of tranquility in Hope Gardens or the University Campus at Mona. Without question, there is a sense of history in the traditions of government, of academia and in the architecture of places such as Kings House, Jamaica House, Spanish Town and Port Royal.
Yet, Kingston is so much more than buildings, parks and streets. It is the vibrancy of the people which makes this such a great city. You see it in the range of artistic expression in the fine arts, theatre and music, in the world class performances of Jamaica?s excellent athletes, in celebrations such as Carnival and in the cultural and academic contributions Jamaicans have made to other countries, including my own. Tough and voluble, but with an endurance, warmth and humour that is typically Jamaican,
the creative energy of the people makes Kingston exciting, sometimes exhausting ? but never dull!
Kathryn Hewlett- Jobes
High Commissioner
Canadian High Commission
What a challenge! How to pick one favourite place among so many
possibilities. Potential selections
abound ? from the heights of the Blue Mountains to the cool depths of the coral reefs under the surrounding sea.
Should it be the sheer sensual beauty of the mountains, with their extraordinary colours of plant, flower and bird life; enjoying the touch of warm, humid air
that suddenly cools as a cloud rolls in; the driving energy of a pelting rain shower; the heady fragrance of myriad flowers, damp earth, wild spices; the melodious competition of birds fiercely singing for control over their bit of territory; the heavy sweetness of mangoes hanging from richly laden trees . . .
Or perhaps the north coast, with its rich store of pleasures
for those in search of fun, sun, and a taste of the rhythm of Jamaica. Or the quieter pursuits of the south coast; dropping down from well-tended farms to the gentle expanse of Treasure Beach, its rolling waves enticing all ages to try a little body surfing; watching the fishermen weigh and haggle over the day?s catch; sneaking a swing on the tarzan rope to plunge into the grotto pool underneath the spectacular YS falls . . .
No wait, what about the cool delight of sinking into the tranquil depths ?neath the seas, an alien observer in a silent world, trading stares with impassive, wise groupers, marvelling at the exquisite organization of coral as their millions cooperate to create exquisite fans, antlers, tubes . . .
No, better yet . . .
Dr. Wilfried Bolewski
Ambassador of the Federal Republic
of Germany
To escape the hustle and bustle of life in the capital Kingston, I have come to like the quietness of Port Antonio and its surroundings.
The best vantage point to overlook the beautiful coastline seems to be the Bonnie View Hotel. The short ferry trip to Navy Island draws you into the seclusion and mystique of Errol Flynn?s memories. Frenchman?s Cove with its rainforest approach and picturesque beach reflects the miniature character of the island?s landscape.
The wider space and rough waves of Long Bay have captured my fascination and whetted my appetite for the famous Portland jerked pork.
All in all, Jamaica in and of itself is ?my favourite place?.
Hiroshi Funakoshi
Japanese Charg? D?Affaires and Counsellor 1992-95
Embassy of Japan in Jamaica
My wife, Misako, and myself have been in the beautiful island of Jamaica for the past 3 years and it is very difficult to pinpoint any one place as being our favourite. We each have special spots that are dear to our hearts and spots that we share together.
We have travelled the island many times and have seen the wealth of beauty spots the island has to offer. Many times we have had the impression that the scenery here and that in Japan are somewhat similar. There is a feeling of open friendliness.
For myself, I would say that Port Antonio is my number one. The breathtakingly beautiful scenery and quiet atmosphere gives me just what I need for quiet meditation after a hard week at the mission. The atmosphere there is one that is so quaint and I would venture to say is indigenous to the parish.
My wife is a scuba-diver and so Negril is her favourite place. She has spent many hours enjoying the coral reefs and viewing the marine life off the coast of Negril.
Jointly we would say though that Montego Bay is a place where we share sentiments. Why . . . ? Golf, golf and more golf. The course at the Half Moon Hotel is so lush and nice, and the world renowned Tryall Golf Course is one place that we are happy to have played.
There are so many places and things that we love about Jamaica, including Blue Mountain Coffee, reggae music and the people, that when our tour of duty ends, there will be many happy memories for us to take back to Japan.